Castellers - A Community Event.

England has its Morris Dancers, Scotland it's Highland Games, and Catalunya has it's Castellers, groups of townspeople who gather to build pyramids of humanity, and compete for pleasure and modest glory.

Nobody knows for sure when building Castells began, but it's thought that like the events above, it was an offshoot of trade fairs and feast days in the 18th century, when locals would show off a bit by balancing on each others shoulders, and the more complex towers developed from there.

Left: The "Anxaneta" signals the completion of the Castell.

"Castellers" are more or less unique to Cataunya, which is surprising as the events are so exciting musically, colourfully and emotionally to watch. The process involves building a tower of people - Men and Women are involved - standing on each others shoulders up to ten levels high. Obviously the biggest and strongest form the "Ground Floor" with progressively slimmer and lighter peple above until the top layer consists of a small child who, as he/she reaches the top pauses to raise his arm at which point the tower is judged complete.

An important part of the event is the music, provided by the old Medieval instrument known as the "Gralla", a woodwind flute, and "Timbals" or simple drums.

Right: "Grallers" tune up before a competition.

There are dozens of teams or "Colles" in Catalunya. Each team has it's own uniform colour and on competition days the "Plaças" are a riot of bright shirts. The head of a team is called the "Cap de Colla" (head).

The method of construction is very complex. Though it may look simple, the Castell is an engineering structure with a design. The structure will have two basic features - the number of people on each layer, and the number of levels. In my experience the layer can consists of from 1 to seven people, and the layers from 4 to 10. Catalan numbers are used to describe this, so 4 people going up eight layers would be a "Quatre de Vuit" and five people going up six layers as "Cinc de Sis".

There's one other major building element. The base usually comprises a tight group of supporters called the "Pinya", (pineapple) as they look like the chunks of that fruit! In more complex towers a level stands atop the Pinya, and this is called the "Folre" (padding). In the most ambitious there is a layer above the Folre calles the "Manilles" (handcuffs). These layers all act like the butresses of a cathedral, carrying the weight of the tower to the ground. The Cap de Colla organises and instructs the construction from the start - the building of the Pinya, the locking of arms then the construction of each layer as the tower progresses.

The image shows the cruciform plan of the Pinya. The heaviest members make up the core while carefully locked bodies embrace all parts of the base to give it strength. The Folre and Manilles take similar form, but smaller.

Each member of the team wears a bandana and a waist band called the "Faixa". (sash). The faixa acts as a corset to support the back muscles and also as a "step" for those climbing up and down barefoot.

The building of the tower progresses under the instruction of the Cap de Colla, with each layer following each other by climbing up the ones below until the penultimate layer or "Aixecador" bends low to allow the Anxaneta to crawl over his back, and the tower is complete. The members immediately start to descend as fast as they can, while the tower trembles. It is at this time that towers sometimes collapse, and small injuries such as lost teeth or black eyes are common. Serious injuries such as fractures occur from time to time and sadly a small child died some years ago, resulting in the use of special safety helmets for all children in the upper layers.

Left: A Quatre de Vuit" nears completion. The "Joves Xiquets de Valls" in Action on their home ground.

One of the most endearing features of these shows is the collaboration and friendship between the teams. In the photo at left you can see the members of the blue (Terrassa) team supporting the "Pinya" of the Valls home team.

Culture, Colour, Music, History, Friendly people, Cold beers and Tapas under a Warm Sun. What more could you ask for?

The Spanish Armada.

Most British people have heard of the "Armada" but know little about it, other that is was defeated and is a significant event in - particularly, English History. But why did it happen at all, and who was involved? Here's a condensed version.

"In 1492 Columbus sailed the Ocean blue", and discovered what he thought was China, or India. Whatever, he faded from the scene while an increasingly agressive group of adventurers sailed from Spain having heard of "El Dorado" the land of gold.

The treasures they sent back on the transatlantic fleets swelled the Spanish coffers of King Philip II, a very devout, even obsessive Catholic who was apalled at the rise of Protestant feeling in the Netherlands (Holland and Belgium). Philip sent his armies to subdue the anti-Catholics, however across the waters in England, Queen Elizabeth, who's father Henry VIII had deposed the Catholic church for purposes of convenient marriages, sided with the Protestant rebels and made matters worse by chopping off the head of her Catholic cousin and pretender to the English throne, Mary Queen of Scots.

England at this time, around 1580, was in a bit of a depression so the Army and Navy were poorly paid, and trouble on the continent was bad for the English wool trade with Belgium. The French and English knew about the Spanish gold shipments so Elizabeth turned a blind eye to the odd bit of piracy by her naughty pals Francis Drake and Sir John Hawkins who built their own fleets of ships as privateers. Now this is important: A privateer must be swift, carry carefully balanced guns however be able to make long sea journeys. The English Shipyards did away with the mediaeval High "Castled" ships of Henry VIII and produced low, slim, speedy and manouverable craft which could outpace and outgun the lumbering transports of the Spanish which had to carry huge bulk and stores long distances.

An English Ship of the 16th Century

Philip II in his new palace in Madrid "El Escorial", was convinced that God had charged him with the saving of the Catholic faith. In fact it is unavoidable that he knew if he conquered England he could consolidate the Netherlands and later France. Elizabeth had effectively declared war on him and in 1585 he issued orders to use the Army at that time in the Netherlands to cross the Dover strait (He knew the Romans and the Normans had done it!) under the protection of a great fleet which would also carry siege weapons and thousands of additional troops. His commanders set about assembling the fleet in Lisbon, which Philip had just conveniently conquered along with Portugal.

The fleet of 125 ships was to be made up of about 20 quality fighting ships which were the hunter-killers, 40 bulky transports or Galeasses which carried siege supplies and troops, and numerous smaller vessels which were variously armed. Things started to go wrong almost from the start. The man in charge, the elderly Marquez de Santa Cruz, died and was replaced by the Duke of Medina Sidonia who was unqualified in sea warfare and less than enthusiastic about the venture , especially when he saw the enormity of the task. Secondly, there was bickering and infighting amongst the many powerful, but ineffectual Lords involved in the hierarchy of management. Thirdly, the King, residing at the Escorial, was removed from all the problems and fobbed off any excuses by irritated and peremptory memo's to his commander in chief.

Medina Sidonia was a trier, however he had endless problems embargoing fleets from Spains posessions in The Mediterranean, Basque country and Andalucia, assembling them, crewing them (the smart ones were all in South America making good money) and above all, arming them with the bewildering array of Spanish guns - Culebrines, Sacres, Pedreros, Cañones which fired shot of many sizes and types necessitating management of a high order to make sure each gun had the correct equipment. Here is another important point. The Spanish used land cannon with large wheels. These took up a large amount of room on deck so normally only one side of the ship could load at a time. The English artillery was based on a carriage with a small wheel which allowed the gun to run in after firing and be loaded inboard while the Spanish had to lean over the side to clean and load.

Below: An English "Truck" mounted ship Cannon and a European "all purpose " field cannon.

The enormous task proceeded with many delays due to unending problems including rotten stores, deaths, defecting crews and finally Philip lost his temper and commanded the fleet to sail which they did, straight into an Atlantic storm which wrecked several of the more rotten hulks and forced them to scatter into Corunna and back to Lisbon. Eventually the huge fleet lumbered out and headed North arriving off the English Channel on 30th july 1588 where the English, through the inventor of Espionage, Lord Walsingham had beacons set up to convey the news along the coast.

Whether or not Francis Drake was playing bowls is immaterial. The English fleet of 105 ships (only 35 of these were Royal Navy ships, and many were lighty armed) was out of Plymouth and to windward, the advantage, of the Spanish in plenty of time.

A Contemporary sketch of the Spanish Fleet with the English in hot Pursuit.

Strangely at this time, Medina Sidonia called for a council of war at sea. You'd have thought they had a plan beforehand but it seems they needed one last argument before going into battle and so it proved...more squabbling and arm waving on the flagship before they did what they meant to do all the time and head for the rendezvous with the Spanish army at Calais. Before they got far into the Channel the English under command of Admiral Lord Howard began to harass the vast fleet which proceeded in a broad curved formation with outlying "horns" threatening to close in on any ship which attempted to close the weak centre. This is where The Armada's third problem arose. Medina Sidonia had been sending messages via fast ships to The Duke of Parma, commanding the land army for weeks but had no reply. Only now did he get the message that the land army was "not quite ready". Tricky, when you have 120+ unmanouverable fat ships on a shallow coast being harassed by nimble English warships. Medina Sidonia ordered the fleet to anchor near Calais. (The French of course refused to allow the Spanish to use any of their ports) and the English fleet, seeing their opportunity sent in their fireships - old and dilapidated hulks loaded with tar, gunpowder, rope and anything combustible towed upwind of the anchored Spanish then set afire and released. Deadly!

The Spanish, seeing the danger simply cut their anchor cables (this was also to cost them later) and tried to make for the open sea. This was the beginning of the end for the Armada, as the Dutch, skilled seamen, had a fleet of small but well armed "Cromsters", highly manouverable light warships which operated on the shallow waters of the Eastern North sea, forcing the great and panicked transports towards the English coast where Howards galleons caused them greater grief. Many Spanish ships grounded on the shallows of the Netherlands and their crews were brutally executed by the locals who owed them no favours.

Medina Sidonia tried to rally his fleet, but as soon as they were through the Dover strait it seems even the fleet commander, who had no stomach for the fight from the start, had given up and he headed North leaving the remains of the fleet, still harried by the English in the west, and the brutal Cromsters in the East, to scatter and struggle northward in adverse weather with a vague plan to break out into the Atlantic and try to head south to the Bay of Biscay.

In England there was still confusion and near panic. For two whole weeks they had no news of the Armada. Howard, his ammunition lockers empty continued to appeal for supplies to the Queen, and to fret over the lack of information. Eventually as news arrived of Spanish shipwrecks in Scotland and Ireland, the nation realised that the danger was past, and celebrated. Queen Elizabeth however never settled all of the costs and even the heroes of the hour were poorly dealt with after the panic had subsided.

Meanwhile the scattered Spanish fleet stumbled Northward, the crews sick, the ships in poor condition as they had been from the start of the great adventure. The pilots on board struggled with lack of charts or information and one by one the ships, without anchors to save themselves, foundered on Fair Isle, and Western Scotland. Ireland, seemingly a Catholic sanctury beckoned, however as ship after ship piled onto the coast, bandits fell on those who survived the waves and slaughtered them for the clothes they wore. The "lucky" rich survivors were stripped naked of their finery and imprisoned to be ransomed later. The weather could not have been worse, westerly gales forced the stragglers to wallow their way back to Spain where the arrived over a period of months.

Of the original fleet of 120 ships (5 sank on their way to England at the start of the adventure!) only 40 arrived back in Spain. Medina Sidonia sent word ahead to the King by fast cutter and then put his ship into Santander where he loaded his baggage on to a few carts and headed for his home near Jerez.

Philip II on receiving news from the army of Flanders, and ships which straggled into the northern ports, fell into a deep depression. He had wagered not only his treasury and indebted his country, but had involved the Pope and all of Spains posessions elsewhere. The collapse of the Armada and the "Adventure of England" was the end of Spain's Golden Age. Despite this there were two more attempts to land an army in Ireland,however Walsinghams' marvellous espionage and the use of bribery and torture revealed these plans and they were beaten off easily.

What often escapes attention is that the "Armada Plan" could very easily have been successful. Englands land defences were pathetic and the sea battle was won mainly by the command of privateers and their own ships and skilful crews and gunners, rather than by the Royal Navy. If The duke of Parma had good weather to land his fleet in Kent, and had they landed the siege weapons from the Armada, they could well have defeated the small resources of the English and taken London with the support of the Armada.

What defeated the Spanish above all was over confidence, poor communications and bad management. The King could not accept his commanders advice that all was not well so he proceeded on the assumption that "God would Provide". Unfortunately for the King, God sent him bad weather, a tenacious enemy, poor communications and the hatred of Northern Europe for the Spanish attempts to dominate their lands and their religion.

Principal sources: "The Spanish Armada" by Colin Martin & Geoffrey Parker.

"Spain and the Netherlands 1559-1659" by Geoffrey Parker.

"The Mary Rose" H.M.S.O. London.

A Tree too big to Hug?

My favourite pastime is walking, but there's an added flavour when you walk to discover and learn something. This week I took Mrs. Max up to Terra Alta, the high area to the West of the Ebro Valley where there are so many great walking areas. Our target was an ancient Olive tree known as "Lo Parot" The Patriarch. It's reckoned to be the oldest tree in Catalunya and at 2000 plus years, possibly the oldest in Spain. I found out about Lo Parot on the Palau Robert website, which is a marvellous multi lingual resource of walks, cycling, climbing and motoring routes throughout Catalunya. This is one of the easiest routes as the tree is just 200 metres from the road over mostly level ground, however it is private land and a dirt path only.

Lo Parot is obviously recognised as a national treasure as a stout fence and sigposts explaining its biology have been placed. I understand that, genetically, it is unusual, being a very ancient strain of olive. Notwithstanding, it is very healthy and still producing dark elongated fruits which lie in abundance below the massive 8 metre girth of the impressive great great grandfather of the species.

How to get there: From Salou drive to Hospitalet de L'Infant, Mora, Gandesa then take the road to Bot and the Txxx to Horta de Sant Joan. At KP3 there are farm buildings of grey breeze block. Park opposite, don't block the road. Follow the track to the buildings and passing the larger shed on your right turn right following the low field wall for 100 metres (the path will be well walked) this brings you to a step down to a lower field and Lo Parot is on the right just 50 metres away. (This route takes into consideration the road works at Prat de Compte 2009 - an easier route to Horta via Tortosa and Xerta will exist when the work is done)

To complete the day we drove back though the delightfully named BOT and on to Batea, another ancient and venerable Catalan town. This picture shows the arches which line the main street of Carrer Major where the diminuitive town hall (Ajuntament - that's the door on the right!) emphasises tha scale of these tiny but delightful towns.

As we enjoyed strolling around, despite the chilly conditions (600 metres up and in late January, even Catalunya can get nippy) we became aware of a scolding bark from a local doggie, staring at us from a beautiful small house built right over a narrow lane. I captured him for a moment and his expression suggests that he'd really have rather been out with us!

Enjoy Terra Alta through their website before you go there. (http://www.terra-alta.org/)

Stop for a coffee and some crusty bread at La Corbera D'Ebre (7 Kms from Gandesa)on the way back to Mora and Hospitalet.

Hill Walk - Colldejou, near Mont Roig.

I've climbed Colldejou twice, well almost! Last March I went to the top in clear, very cold and windy weather, stayed for fifteen minutes then retired chilled but thrilled. Looking West from Salou, Colldejou is the big roundish mountain above the Port. The name refers to the town of Colldejou which means "The Pass of the Ox Yoke", "Jou" being Catalan for Yoke, and Coll as in Scotland meaning a pass. The two adjacent passes look like a Yoke from afar.

Colldejou, and the road, from the top.

You can drive up to the town and park then take the well signposted track which leads to Llaberia and then Coll de Guix. (2kms) From Coll de Guix take the right turn through the woods which then leads steeply up the hill, through the treeline and out onto scree slopes to the flat top. It's a fairly steep 400 m climb but not bad if you take it slowly. In fact, the top of the hill is a long oval lying East West and is of weathered limestone. There are many strange features, the most notable of which is an old fort structure at the East end. There is a shallow pond in the centre of the hill, and what appear to be ruins of a chapel or lookout at the western end. More investigation needed.

On a clear day the views to the coast and the windmill farms to the North are magnificent, but be aware of sudden temperature changes. I quit short of the summit yesterday as it looked like a temperature inversion hanging over the top and I was ill prepared for that. It's also quite a demanding climb so wear good fell boots and avoid fog as there are some very narrow ledges to negotiate with scary drops.

The strange double walled drystone tower on the East of the mountain.

How to get there: Check out the instructions on www.gencat/palaurobert . Head for Montroig del Camp, avoid the centre and take the C322 towards Falset. About 14 kms on you come to Colldejou. (it's lovely road. If you just want a nice drive, carry on to Falset and come back via Mora) In Colldejou, park by the bus stop at the foot of the town and walk up past the church, always upwards then out past a wooden chalet where the signpost points you to Llaberia, then Coll de Guix. At Coll de Guix watch for the signs to the right (faded paint) which point you to a level trail through the woods. Take a litre of water, some sandwiches and binoculars. Plenty of eagles and red kites around on mild days. You might just see a mountain goat too.

Hill Walk - Poblet to La Pena

Summer heat is not conducive to long hikes, so i've been studying a bit of history by visiting the Monasteries in this area, reading, and taking friends up to these places. While I was at Poblet, the tourist office there gave me guides (In perfect English) to three walks in the adjacent hills and today I did the first of these - from Poblet to the viewpoint of La Pena.

This trail takes you through the oak woods of the Sant Bernat ravine and on up to a magnificent summit overlooking Poblet and the plains towards Lleida. Some of these forest walks are a bit dull, unless you're into trees in a big way, but this one is an exception. You pass old quarry works where stone was mined for the monastery and the town of Esplugues. The geology here is very varied and you can see Granitic rocks, white sandstone, red sandstone and black shale. A little further on they have reconstructed a charcoal oven where, from the 12th century to as recently as the 1960's, charcoal for cooking was produced.

It was bright and calm today and there was plenty of birdsong. I spotted a Robin holding forth and there were plenty of finches in the rushes down near the stream. The water is running freely and adds a nice background in the hush of the oak woods. Several mushroom hunters were out, scratching around the leaf mould for "rovellons" and other edible fungi which are in season.

The trail, which is regularly and clearly signposted, crosses the El Boixets stream several times and brings you to a strange heaxagonal building which is an old ice well where ice and snow were stored for use in Summer. I snacked on some blackberries which were growing by the stream. I always seem to find something, Oranges, figs, cherries, grapes, even a Pomegranate once!

The strange Ice House structure.

Just before reaching the top there is a small waterfall which presumably was the source of the ice. It falls 20 metres into a series of ponds then overflows into the stream. In this area there is also the restored forestry workers house which has typical Catalan tile and brick work and a bronze plaque with the geographic and height co-ordinates.

You arrive at the La Pena lookout which has been fenced with timber and furnished with benches and waste bins (the whole area of the walk was spotless). There is a photo guide showing the names of all the peaks in view. It was pretty clear today and the Pre-Pyrenees up around Huesca could be seen with a dusting of snow from the recent wet spell. The oak trees are also showing the first hint of Autumn gold which is something we don't see much of in the pines of Tarragona.

"La Pena" lookout with Poblet Monastery centre left and the town of Esplugues on the right.

The return to Poblet is mostly by the same route but with a deviation onto a path called "Mata Rucs" which ominously means "Donkey Killer"...though if it didn't harm me it shouldnt bother any reasonably healthy Catalan Donkey!

On the drive back I discovered, just between Poblet and Les Masies village, a public fountain which has three spouts. Two of these give Iron rich water and the central one, Magnesium rich, which I tasted. It wa fine, nice and cool and with a definite hint of metal, bit like Andrews Liver Salts. I filled one of my empty bottles!

Poblet Monastery surrounded by laden vines in the Autumn



How to get there : From Salou take the C14 towards Reus then the T11 towards Tarragona, rejoining the C14to Montblanc. As you approach Montblanc follow for Lleida, pass through the industrial estates and turn right to Esplugues and Poblet. Pass the monastery on you left and keep on for about 1 kilometer 'til you see an information sign on the right. Park there and the trail is signposted. You can get the route guides free at the info office at Poblet. This is a pretty steep walk so you need to be in reasonable condition and wear good hiking shoes, have some water and the usual common sense items.

Visit - The Monastery of Sta. Maria de Vallbona.

Like the other Monasteries in this area, the one in the lush area of Vallbona (literally Good Valley) was encouraged by the Kings of Catalunya after they had established their territory by vanquishing the Moors. Vallbona was originally a small sect of Benedictine Nuns and Monks known as far back as 1154, however the Monks moved on in 1176 and several Nuns came from Navarra, to the Northwest, and established an order of the Cistercian creed.

13th century entrance to the Church. Tombs of Kings stand on the right.

Like Santes Creus and Poblet, this settlement received patronage and protection of the rulers of Catalunya including the ancillary kingdoms of Sicily and Mallorca.

These Monastic settlements, throughout Middle age Europe, were a gathering point for humanity in administration (secular) as well as religious matters as the world recovered from the "Dark Ages". The scale and detail of the buildings is quite extraordinary. It is hard to believe that the main tower of the church was completed in the 14th century. The delicacy of the stonework is stunning.

Below: The 14th century tower overlooks the cloister garden.

The plan at Vallbona is similar to those at Poblet and Santes Creus, as well as other Monasteries. The church stands on one side of a rectangular cloister which is the centre of thought and reflection. The Nuns cells lie down one side of the cloister while the administrative rooms are in various points around the building.

One difference here is that the Nuns are active all around and cheerfully serve and answer questions in their neat and modern shop. It is worth reflecting that despite the purge of the monasteries in 1835, this has been an active site of worship for 850 years.

Summing up the impact of the several religious sites I have visited, I feel that these represent the Major Public Works of the Early middle ages. They formed vital focal points for not only religion, but for information gathering, law and government. Not least, the spiritual effect on the powerful of the Kingdom is marked by the presence of the tombs of most of the local Kings, and their spouses, in these strangely affecting places.

Sunlight picks out detail in the Nave of the church.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus Road and the T-11 roundabout to Montblanc, turning onto the C-14 which you follow to Montblanc. Continue on the C-14 past Montblanc for Tarréga and about 10kms up there is a left turn, clearly signposted to Vallbona de les Monges. Opening: Tues to Sat: 10.30 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 Sundays and Holy Days 12.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 (18.45 in summer) Entrance 3 euros. (closed Mondays).

Visit - The Monastery of Poblet.

Left: The approach to the Monastery.

Continuing my investigation of the Monasteries of Catalunya, I went to what is considered the most complete and important one. Poblet is near the Mediaeval city of Montblanc 45 kilometers North of Tarragona by an excellent road. Lying in a valley of the Prades mountains, and in the area of "Conca de Barberá" it is significantly greener and more tranquil than the semi-desert of "Baix Camp". Like the other monastic settlements in the area, Poblet was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of the newly created Catlunya in order to establish centres of population, administration and learning in the lands recently reconquered fom the Moors.

Also like the others, it's construction ad evolution spans six centuries, so those who know a wee bit about architecture will enjoy the range of styles from Romanesque through Gothic and Catalan Gothic to modernist touches added during recent restoration. Surprisingly there is still an enclave of 30 Monks here who carry out maintenance and restoration while following their practices of worship, however you are unlikely to see them, as they maintain a distance to preserve their silence.

As with most monasteries, the central Cloister is the bright and sunny area where some walking and conversation was permitted. Like Santes Creus, Poblet has a large fountain built into the cloister area. The library, which was sadly pillaged during the neglect following the sacking of 1835, is of the 13th century and now back in use. There are many areas fully open to the public and the tour, although only available in Spanish and Catalan is worthwhile as an English printed guide is provided on request.

The magnificent Charter House which is still in use for worship and musical recitals.

Also, like the other monasteries, in the 14th century the buildings were fortified and much of the exterior construction shows the defensive nature of the Monsatery which was much visited by Kings and their families.





The church itself is quite extraordinary with many alabaster carvings including the main facade of the Nave and the tombs of several Kings and Queens of Aragon and Catalunya, including that of Jaume I, the conquistador whose name means so much to Salou. These tombs were also pillaged and the bones thrown to the floor during the shameful sacking in the 19th century. Later, these were removed to Tarragona for reburial but the tombs have been carefully restored and are a notable monument to Mediaeval Kingship in this area. Set, as they are in the simple 13th century church, their impact is impressive.





There is a very fine museum area inside the Monastery which contains items of all kinds from dishes and everday utensils, to remains of statues and fine quality carvings rescued during the restoration work which continues to be carried out.




One of many fine carvings on display in the Monastery Museum.






The restoration does not intrude on the atmosphere, and new accomodation blocks being built are very tasteful. This is a well planned operation with adequate parking outside of the Monastery itself, though many people ignored the no entry signs and simply parked inside the main square.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus road to the T11 roundabout where you take the T11 turning for Montblanc. Shortly this directs you to the T14 which you follow always for Montblanc. Near Montblanc follow for Lleida some 9 kilometers...Poblet is well signposted.