Visit - Monastery of Escaladei

Following two recent visits to the Monsatery at Santes Creus, I decided to go back to the Carthusian site at Scala Dei - the "stairway to God" in the Montsant region. I was last there in 1982 when it had just been acquired as a restoration site however even now there is a massive amount to do. Like Santes Creus and other monasteries, it was closed in 1835 as a convenient way to sell off the land and the destruction of six centuries of peaceful settlement was completed in a few days. Since then the carved stones have been mined for use in farm buildings and walls but the shameful lazy pillagers did not remove the foundations so there is a lot to build on.

The Carthusians were a "silent" order, spending most of their time in individual cells in prayer and meditation. "Lay" workers assisted with the farming and maintenance of the buildings and land, and pilgrims and travellers were cared for in the Hospital and pharmacy.

The church building is the oldest part, dating from the early 13th century (1228) and was patronised by King Jaume I whose statue and name is prominent in Salou. The buildings were extended and refurbished constantly thoughout the 15th and particularly the wealthy farming periods of the 16th and 17th centuries when Catalunya flourished.

It is tragic, but perhaps typical of human history, that this effort should be destroyed by envy and greed then left to rot and ruin once the wealth had been taken by a few individuals.

How to get there: Take the T11 Bypass from Reus towards Falset, just beyond Reus take the right turn to Borges del Camp and continue to Alforja then Direction Cornella de Montsant. Before Cornella there's a junction to the left (good cafe at the junction) to Poboleda which you pass through before arriving at Escaladei. There is a small village first where you can enjoy a meal or a drink - the Monastery is 2 kilometers up a track beyond the village. Opening hours 10 - 1.30 closed Mondays. For variety, return via Gratallops where you can buy very fine Priorat wine and other products at the Agro-Coop, then pass through Falset before returning to Reus.

The Monastery of Santes Creus.

I've lived in this area for 25+ years and heard about the monasteries and churches, however i've only seen a tiny fraction of what they have to offer. As it's a bit hot for sustained effort in August, I decided to take a stroll around the Monastery of Santes Creus, just a half hour drive from Salou. It's one of the Cistercian monasteries and the building has been messed about in so many ways, but it's set in some very pretty country with lots of broad leaved trees which cool the atmosphere.

The main square at Santes Creus.

There are lots of nooks and crannies to poke around in, and one of the best finds is a tiny cloister round an old well of the main square. This uses the old Roman principle of a shady area with a draught passing through and damp air as natural air conditioning.

Surprisingly, this well known site was not massively busy on the Sunday when I visited, however my timing was not too good as they close at 1.30 pm. By way of compensation there are many small bars and restaurants around the charming narrow village steet which leads up to the site, and the smell of woodsmoke gives way to the aroma of roasting sausages, and grilling lamb chops, reminding one that there are some excellent red wines available around here. If only I didn't have to drive back...sigh..never mind, one decent beer is acceptable with a nice piece of rare steak, some flame roasted green peppers and sauteed potatoes and a green salad on the side.

The Cloister and well of Santes Creus.

The buildings are a nice study for anyone keen on mediaeval architecture with lots of nice detail in the masonic style - strange creatures chewing their own tails and so forth.

Pseudo Celtic creatures in the 13th century (earlier?) style.

There seem to be many inhabited houses around the square and I need a second visit, better timed, to learn more about this fascinating place. The last picture is of the 18th century building and archway which leads to the main gate. One of those nice restaurants I mentioned is right there.

Update: True to my word, I returned to Santes Creus with my Wife and Nephews towards the end of August, and in plenty of time to see inside the restored monastery. It is magnificent! The cloisters hold the most astonishing collection of carving i've seen since Roslin Abbey near Edinburgh. There are so many ages represented here from the 12th to the 19th century. There's a visitor centre which shows a film about the Monasteries of the area - the Englsih version screens at 12:30 but be in plenty of time.

We actually didn't get into the church itself as a Mass was being held, but if you get there before 11 you can either join the Mass or see the church before it begins. I'm going again when I get a better camera - those carvings merit a collection of pictures.

How to get there: From Tarragona take the main road to Valls, on the Valls bypass take the C51 towards El Vendrell. Santes Creus is well signposted from there. On the return trip, try going via Aiguamurcia, it's a pleasant treed valley and brings you back by another route to Tarragona.