Visit - The Monastery of Sta. Maria de Vallbona.

Like the other Monasteries in this area, the one in the lush area of Vallbona (literally Good Valley) was encouraged by the Kings of Catalunya after they had established their territory by vanquishing the Moors. Vallbona was originally a small sect of Benedictine Nuns and Monks known as far back as 1154, however the Monks moved on in 1176 and several Nuns came from Navarra, to the Northwest, and established an order of the Cistercian creed.

13th century entrance to the Church. Tombs of Kings stand on the right.

Like Santes Creus and Poblet, this settlement received patronage and protection of the rulers of Catalunya including the ancillary kingdoms of Sicily and Mallorca.

These Monastic settlements, throughout Middle age Europe, were a gathering point for humanity in administration (secular) as well as religious matters as the world recovered from the "Dark Ages". The scale and detail of the buildings is quite extraordinary. It is hard to believe that the main tower of the church was completed in the 14th century. The delicacy of the stonework is stunning.

Below: The 14th century tower overlooks the cloister garden.

The plan at Vallbona is similar to those at Poblet and Santes Creus, as well as other Monasteries. The church stands on one side of a rectangular cloister which is the centre of thought and reflection. The Nuns cells lie down one side of the cloister while the administrative rooms are in various points around the building.

One difference here is that the Nuns are active all around and cheerfully serve and answer questions in their neat and modern shop. It is worth reflecting that despite the purge of the monasteries in 1835, this has been an active site of worship for 850 years.

Summing up the impact of the several religious sites I have visited, I feel that these represent the Major Public Works of the Early middle ages. They formed vital focal points for not only religion, but for information gathering, law and government. Not least, the spiritual effect on the powerful of the Kingdom is marked by the presence of the tombs of most of the local Kings, and their spouses, in these strangely affecting places.

Sunlight picks out detail in the Nave of the church.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus Road and the T-11 roundabout to Montblanc, turning onto the C-14 which you follow to Montblanc. Continue on the C-14 past Montblanc for Tarréga and about 10kms up there is a left turn, clearly signposted to Vallbona de les Monges. Opening: Tues to Sat: 10.30 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 Sundays and Holy Days 12.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 (18.45 in summer) Entrance 3 euros. (closed Mondays).

Visit - The Monastery of Poblet.

Left: The approach to the Monastery.

Continuing my investigation of the Monasteries of Catalunya, I went to what is considered the most complete and important one. Poblet is near the Mediaeval city of Montblanc 45 kilometers North of Tarragona by an excellent road. Lying in a valley of the Prades mountains, and in the area of "Conca de Barberá" it is significantly greener and more tranquil than the semi-desert of "Baix Camp". Like the other monastic settlements in the area, Poblet was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of the newly created Catlunya in order to establish centres of population, administration and learning in the lands recently reconquered fom the Moors.

Also like the others, it's construction ad evolution spans six centuries, so those who know a wee bit about architecture will enjoy the range of styles from Romanesque through Gothic and Catalan Gothic to modernist touches added during recent restoration. Surprisingly there is still an enclave of 30 Monks here who carry out maintenance and restoration while following their practices of worship, however you are unlikely to see them, as they maintain a distance to preserve their silence.

As with most monasteries, the central Cloister is the bright and sunny area where some walking and conversation was permitted. Like Santes Creus, Poblet has a large fountain built into the cloister area. The library, which was sadly pillaged during the neglect following the sacking of 1835, is of the 13th century and now back in use. There are many areas fully open to the public and the tour, although only available in Spanish and Catalan is worthwhile as an English printed guide is provided on request.

The magnificent Charter House which is still in use for worship and musical recitals.

Also, like the other monasteries, in the 14th century the buildings were fortified and much of the exterior construction shows the defensive nature of the Monsatery which was much visited by Kings and their families.





The church itself is quite extraordinary with many alabaster carvings including the main facade of the Nave and the tombs of several Kings and Queens of Aragon and Catalunya, including that of Jaume I, the conquistador whose name means so much to Salou. These tombs were also pillaged and the bones thrown to the floor during the shameful sacking in the 19th century. Later, these were removed to Tarragona for reburial but the tombs have been carefully restored and are a notable monument to Mediaeval Kingship in this area. Set, as they are in the simple 13th century church, their impact is impressive.





There is a very fine museum area inside the Monastery which contains items of all kinds from dishes and everday utensils, to remains of statues and fine quality carvings rescued during the restoration work which continues to be carried out.




One of many fine carvings on display in the Monastery Museum.






The restoration does not intrude on the atmosphere, and new accomodation blocks being built are very tasteful. This is a well planned operation with adequate parking outside of the Monastery itself, though many people ignored the no entry signs and simply parked inside the main square.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus road to the T11 roundabout where you take the T11 turning for Montblanc. Shortly this directs you to the T14 which you follow always for Montblanc. Near Montblanc follow for Lleida some 9 kilometers...Poblet is well signposted.