A Tree too big to Hug?

My favourite pastime is walking, but there's an added flavour when you walk to discover and learn something. This week I took Mrs. Max up to Terra Alta, the high area to the West of the Ebro Valley where there are so many great walking areas. Our target was an ancient Olive tree known as "Lo Parot" The Patriarch. It's reckoned to be the oldest tree in Catalunya and at 2000 plus years, possibly the oldest in Spain. I found out about Lo Parot on the Palau Robert website, which is a marvellous multi lingual resource of walks, cycling, climbing and motoring routes throughout Catalunya. This is one of the easiest routes as the tree is just 200 metres from the road over mostly level ground, however it is private land and a dirt path only.

Lo Parot is obviously recognised as a national treasure as a stout fence and sigposts explaining its biology have been placed. I understand that, genetically, it is unusual, being a very ancient strain of olive. Notwithstanding, it is very healthy and still producing dark elongated fruits which lie in abundance below the massive 8 metre girth of the impressive great great grandfather of the species.

How to get there: From Salou drive to Hospitalet de L'Infant, Mora, Gandesa then take the road to Bot and the Txxx to Horta de Sant Joan. At KP3 there are farm buildings of grey breeze block. Park opposite, don't block the road. Follow the track to the buildings and passing the larger shed on your right turn right following the low field wall for 100 metres (the path will be well walked) this brings you to a step down to a lower field and Lo Parot is on the right just 50 metres away. (This route takes into consideration the road works at Prat de Compte 2009 - an easier route to Horta via Tortosa and Xerta will exist when the work is done)

To complete the day we drove back though the delightfully named BOT and on to Batea, another ancient and venerable Catalan town. This picture shows the arches which line the main street of Carrer Major where the diminuitive town hall (Ajuntament - that's the door on the right!) emphasises tha scale of these tiny but delightful towns.

As we enjoyed strolling around, despite the chilly conditions (600 metres up and in late January, even Catalunya can get nippy) we became aware of a scolding bark from a local doggie, staring at us from a beautiful small house built right over a narrow lane. I captured him for a moment and his expression suggests that he'd really have rather been out with us!

Enjoy Terra Alta through their website before you go there. (http://www.terra-alta.org/)

Stop for a coffee and some crusty bread at La Corbera D'Ebre (7 Kms from Gandesa)on the way back to Mora and Hospitalet.

Hill Walk - Colldejou, near Mont Roig.

I've climbed Colldejou twice, well almost! Last March I went to the top in clear, very cold and windy weather, stayed for fifteen minutes then retired chilled but thrilled. Looking West from Salou, Colldejou is the big roundish mountain above the Port. The name refers to the town of Colldejou which means "The Pass of the Ox Yoke", "Jou" being Catalan for Yoke, and Coll as in Scotland meaning a pass. The two adjacent passes look like a Yoke from afar.

Colldejou, and the road, from the top.

You can drive up to the town and park then take the well signposted track which leads to Llaberia and then Coll de Guix. (2kms) From Coll de Guix take the right turn through the woods which then leads steeply up the hill, through the treeline and out onto scree slopes to the flat top. It's a fairly steep 400 m climb but not bad if you take it slowly. In fact, the top of the hill is a long oval lying East West and is of weathered limestone. There are many strange features, the most notable of which is an old fort structure at the East end. There is a shallow pond in the centre of the hill, and what appear to be ruins of a chapel or lookout at the western end. More investigation needed.

On a clear day the views to the coast and the windmill farms to the North are magnificent, but be aware of sudden temperature changes. I quit short of the summit yesterday as it looked like a temperature inversion hanging over the top and I was ill prepared for that. It's also quite a demanding climb so wear good fell boots and avoid fog as there are some very narrow ledges to negotiate with scary drops.

The strange double walled drystone tower on the East of the mountain.

How to get there: Check out the instructions on www.gencat/palaurobert . Head for Montroig del Camp, avoid the centre and take the C322 towards Falset. About 14 kms on you come to Colldejou. (it's lovely road. If you just want a nice drive, carry on to Falset and come back via Mora) In Colldejou, park by the bus stop at the foot of the town and walk up past the church, always upwards then out past a wooden chalet where the signpost points you to Llaberia, then Coll de Guix. At Coll de Guix watch for the signs to the right (faded paint) which point you to a level trail through the woods. Take a litre of water, some sandwiches and binoculars. Plenty of eagles and red kites around on mild days. You might just see a mountain goat too.

Hill Walk - Poblet to La Pena

Summer heat is not conducive to long hikes, so i've been studying a bit of history by visiting the Monasteries in this area, reading, and taking friends up to these places. While I was at Poblet, the tourist office there gave me guides (In perfect English) to three walks in the adjacent hills and today I did the first of these - from Poblet to the viewpoint of La Pena.

This trail takes you through the oak woods of the Sant Bernat ravine and on up to a magnificent summit overlooking Poblet and the plains towards Lleida. Some of these forest walks are a bit dull, unless you're into trees in a big way, but this one is an exception. You pass old quarry works where stone was mined for the monastery and the town of Esplugues. The geology here is very varied and you can see Granitic rocks, white sandstone, red sandstone and black shale. A little further on they have reconstructed a charcoal oven where, from the 12th century to as recently as the 1960's, charcoal for cooking was produced.

It was bright and calm today and there was plenty of birdsong. I spotted a Robin holding forth and there were plenty of finches in the rushes down near the stream. The water is running freely and adds a nice background in the hush of the oak woods. Several mushroom hunters were out, scratching around the leaf mould for "rovellons" and other edible fungi which are in season.

The trail, which is regularly and clearly signposted, crosses the El Boixets stream several times and brings you to a strange heaxagonal building which is an old ice well where ice and snow were stored for use in Summer. I snacked on some blackberries which were growing by the stream. I always seem to find something, Oranges, figs, cherries, grapes, even a Pomegranate once!

The strange Ice House structure.

Just before reaching the top there is a small waterfall which presumably was the source of the ice. It falls 20 metres into a series of ponds then overflows into the stream. In this area there is also the restored forestry workers house which has typical Catalan tile and brick work and a bronze plaque with the geographic and height co-ordinates.

You arrive at the La Pena lookout which has been fenced with timber and furnished with benches and waste bins (the whole area of the walk was spotless). There is a photo guide showing the names of all the peaks in view. It was pretty clear today and the Pre-Pyrenees up around Huesca could be seen with a dusting of snow from the recent wet spell. The oak trees are also showing the first hint of Autumn gold which is something we don't see much of in the pines of Tarragona.

"La Pena" lookout with Poblet Monastery centre left and the town of Esplugues on the right.

The return to Poblet is mostly by the same route but with a deviation onto a path called "Mata Rucs" which ominously means "Donkey Killer"...though if it didn't harm me it shouldnt bother any reasonably healthy Catalan Donkey!

On the drive back I discovered, just between Poblet and Les Masies village, a public fountain which has three spouts. Two of these give Iron rich water and the central one, Magnesium rich, which I tasted. It wa fine, nice and cool and with a definite hint of metal, bit like Andrews Liver Salts. I filled one of my empty bottles!

Poblet Monastery surrounded by laden vines in the Autumn



How to get there : From Salou take the C14 towards Reus then the T11 towards Tarragona, rejoining the C14to Montblanc. As you approach Montblanc follow for Lleida, pass through the industrial estates and turn right to Esplugues and Poblet. Pass the monastery on you left and keep on for about 1 kilometer 'til you see an information sign on the right. Park there and the trail is signposted. You can get the route guides free at the info office at Poblet. This is a pretty steep walk so you need to be in reasonable condition and wear good hiking shoes, have some water and the usual common sense items.

Visit - The Monastery of Sta. Maria de Vallbona.

Like the other Monasteries in this area, the one in the lush area of Vallbona (literally Good Valley) was encouraged by the Kings of Catalunya after they had established their territory by vanquishing the Moors. Vallbona was originally a small sect of Benedictine Nuns and Monks known as far back as 1154, however the Monks moved on in 1176 and several Nuns came from Navarra, to the Northwest, and established an order of the Cistercian creed.

13th century entrance to the Church. Tombs of Kings stand on the right.

Like Santes Creus and Poblet, this settlement received patronage and protection of the rulers of Catalunya including the ancillary kingdoms of Sicily and Mallorca.

These Monastic settlements, throughout Middle age Europe, were a gathering point for humanity in administration (secular) as well as religious matters as the world recovered from the "Dark Ages". The scale and detail of the buildings is quite extraordinary. It is hard to believe that the main tower of the church was completed in the 14th century. The delicacy of the stonework is stunning.

Below: The 14th century tower overlooks the cloister garden.

The plan at Vallbona is similar to those at Poblet and Santes Creus, as well as other Monasteries. The church stands on one side of a rectangular cloister which is the centre of thought and reflection. The Nuns cells lie down one side of the cloister while the administrative rooms are in various points around the building.

One difference here is that the Nuns are active all around and cheerfully serve and answer questions in their neat and modern shop. It is worth reflecting that despite the purge of the monasteries in 1835, this has been an active site of worship for 850 years.

Summing up the impact of the several religious sites I have visited, I feel that these represent the Major Public Works of the Early middle ages. They formed vital focal points for not only religion, but for information gathering, law and government. Not least, the spiritual effect on the powerful of the Kingdom is marked by the presence of the tombs of most of the local Kings, and their spouses, in these strangely affecting places.

Sunlight picks out detail in the Nave of the church.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus Road and the T-11 roundabout to Montblanc, turning onto the C-14 which you follow to Montblanc. Continue on the C-14 past Montblanc for Tarréga and about 10kms up there is a left turn, clearly signposted to Vallbona de les Monges. Opening: Tues to Sat: 10.30 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 Sundays and Holy Days 12.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 (18.45 in summer) Entrance 3 euros. (closed Mondays).

Visit - The Monastery of Poblet.

Left: The approach to the Monastery.

Continuing my investigation of the Monasteries of Catalunya, I went to what is considered the most complete and important one. Poblet is near the Mediaeval city of Montblanc 45 kilometers North of Tarragona by an excellent road. Lying in a valley of the Prades mountains, and in the area of "Conca de Barberá" it is significantly greener and more tranquil than the semi-desert of "Baix Camp". Like the other monastic settlements in the area, Poblet was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of the newly created Catlunya in order to establish centres of population, administration and learning in the lands recently reconquered fom the Moors.

Also like the others, it's construction ad evolution spans six centuries, so those who know a wee bit about architecture will enjoy the range of styles from Romanesque through Gothic and Catalan Gothic to modernist touches added during recent restoration. Surprisingly there is still an enclave of 30 Monks here who carry out maintenance and restoration while following their practices of worship, however you are unlikely to see them, as they maintain a distance to preserve their silence.

As with most monasteries, the central Cloister is the bright and sunny area where some walking and conversation was permitted. Like Santes Creus, Poblet has a large fountain built into the cloister area. The library, which was sadly pillaged during the neglect following the sacking of 1835, is of the 13th century and now back in use. There are many areas fully open to the public and the tour, although only available in Spanish and Catalan is worthwhile as an English printed guide is provided on request.

The magnificent Charter House which is still in use for worship and musical recitals.

Also, like the other monasteries, in the 14th century the buildings were fortified and much of the exterior construction shows the defensive nature of the Monsatery which was much visited by Kings and their families.





The church itself is quite extraordinary with many alabaster carvings including the main facade of the Nave and the tombs of several Kings and Queens of Aragon and Catalunya, including that of Jaume I, the conquistador whose name means so much to Salou. These tombs were also pillaged and the bones thrown to the floor during the shameful sacking in the 19th century. Later, these were removed to Tarragona for reburial but the tombs have been carefully restored and are a notable monument to Mediaeval Kingship in this area. Set, as they are in the simple 13th century church, their impact is impressive.





There is a very fine museum area inside the Monastery which contains items of all kinds from dishes and everday utensils, to remains of statues and fine quality carvings rescued during the restoration work which continues to be carried out.




One of many fine carvings on display in the Monastery Museum.






The restoration does not intrude on the atmosphere, and new accomodation blocks being built are very tasteful. This is a well planned operation with adequate parking outside of the Monastery itself, though many people ignored the no entry signs and simply parked inside the main square.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus road to the T11 roundabout where you take the T11 turning for Montblanc. Shortly this directs you to the T14 which you follow always for Montblanc. Near Montblanc follow for Lleida some 9 kilometers...Poblet is well signposted.

Visit - Monastery of Escaladei

Following two recent visits to the Monsatery at Santes Creus, I decided to go back to the Carthusian site at Scala Dei - the "stairway to God" in the Montsant region. I was last there in 1982 when it had just been acquired as a restoration site however even now there is a massive amount to do. Like Santes Creus and other monasteries, it was closed in 1835 as a convenient way to sell off the land and the destruction of six centuries of peaceful settlement was completed in a few days. Since then the carved stones have been mined for use in farm buildings and walls but the shameful lazy pillagers did not remove the foundations so there is a lot to build on.

The Carthusians were a "silent" order, spending most of their time in individual cells in prayer and meditation. "Lay" workers assisted with the farming and maintenance of the buildings and land, and pilgrims and travellers were cared for in the Hospital and pharmacy.

The church building is the oldest part, dating from the early 13th century (1228) and was patronised by King Jaume I whose statue and name is prominent in Salou. The buildings were extended and refurbished constantly thoughout the 15th and particularly the wealthy farming periods of the 16th and 17th centuries when Catalunya flourished.

It is tragic, but perhaps typical of human history, that this effort should be destroyed by envy and greed then left to rot and ruin once the wealth had been taken by a few individuals.

How to get there: Take the T11 Bypass from Reus towards Falset, just beyond Reus take the right turn to Borges del Camp and continue to Alforja then Direction Cornella de Montsant. Before Cornella there's a junction to the left (good cafe at the junction) to Poboleda which you pass through before arriving at Escaladei. There is a small village first where you can enjoy a meal or a drink - the Monastery is 2 kilometers up a track beyond the village. Opening hours 10 - 1.30 closed Mondays. For variety, return via Gratallops where you can buy very fine Priorat wine and other products at the Agro-Coop, then pass through Falset before returning to Reus.

The Monastery of Santes Creus.

I've lived in this area for 25+ years and heard about the monasteries and churches, however i've only seen a tiny fraction of what they have to offer. As it's a bit hot for sustained effort in August, I decided to take a stroll around the Monastery of Santes Creus, just a half hour drive from Salou. It's one of the Cistercian monasteries and the building has been messed about in so many ways, but it's set in some very pretty country with lots of broad leaved trees which cool the atmosphere.

The main square at Santes Creus.

There are lots of nooks and crannies to poke around in, and one of the best finds is a tiny cloister round an old well of the main square. This uses the old Roman principle of a shady area with a draught passing through and damp air as natural air conditioning.

Surprisingly, this well known site was not massively busy on the Sunday when I visited, however my timing was not too good as they close at 1.30 pm. By way of compensation there are many small bars and restaurants around the charming narrow village steet which leads up to the site, and the smell of woodsmoke gives way to the aroma of roasting sausages, and grilling lamb chops, reminding one that there are some excellent red wines available around here. If only I didn't have to drive back...sigh..never mind, one decent beer is acceptable with a nice piece of rare steak, some flame roasted green peppers and sauteed potatoes and a green salad on the side.

The Cloister and well of Santes Creus.

The buildings are a nice study for anyone keen on mediaeval architecture with lots of nice detail in the masonic style - strange creatures chewing their own tails and so forth.

Pseudo Celtic creatures in the 13th century (earlier?) style.

There seem to be many inhabited houses around the square and I need a second visit, better timed, to learn more about this fascinating place. The last picture is of the 18th century building and archway which leads to the main gate. One of those nice restaurants I mentioned is right there.

Update: True to my word, I returned to Santes Creus with my Wife and Nephews towards the end of August, and in plenty of time to see inside the restored monastery. It is magnificent! The cloisters hold the most astonishing collection of carving i've seen since Roslin Abbey near Edinburgh. There are so many ages represented here from the 12th to the 19th century. There's a visitor centre which shows a film about the Monasteries of the area - the Englsih version screens at 12:30 but be in plenty of time.

We actually didn't get into the church itself as a Mass was being held, but if you get there before 11 you can either join the Mass or see the church before it begins. I'm going again when I get a better camera - those carvings merit a collection of pictures.

How to get there: From Tarragona take the main road to Valls, on the Valls bypass take the C51 towards El Vendrell. Santes Creus is well signposted from there. On the return trip, try going via Aiguamurcia, it's a pleasant treed valley and brings you back by another route to Tarragona.