In the 19th century, before motorways and even decent paved roads, there was a serious need for transport of merchandise and people, and in the industrial age the first solution was waterways, rapidly followed by the Railway. Railways were a "quick fix" you could make one as long or as short as you needed. They were perfect for mining regions where tons of ore had to be shifted, and as long as the tracks fitted (the gauge) you could join them up and share the resource between villages, provinces and eventually, nationally.
Spain built over 5000 kilometers of narrow gauge railways between the 1850's and 1960's. They carried farm produce to the coast and fertilisers and machinery back to the interior. The railways were mostly run by small, locally financed companies, and eventually in the 1970's they had become economically unviable so they closed. Happily, someone came up with the idea of recovering the rails and paving the tracks for cyclists and walkers. To date, some 1800 kilometers of these marvellous ways have been made available free to the public, and that's in Spain alone! Europe wide there are thousands of kilomters of "Greenways", perfect, safe, easy walkways, often in the most beautiful countryside imaginable.
The nearest Via Verde to Salou is that from "Roquetes", near Tortosa, to "Pinell de Brai" near Gandesa. It follows the Ebro river valley Northwest and passes through Orange groves before paralleling the river and reaching the town of Xerta. The first tunnels then appear, you'll need a torch! As you go noth past Benifallet the country becomes more rugged and beautiful. There are lots of tunnels here, some just a hundred metres long but some three hundred and very dark. When you emerge into the sunlight you might find a plain covered in almond trees, then the next one a deep ravine with falling water and kingfishers flashing over the crystal pools.
Spring Flowers decorate the Via Verde de Baix Ebre near Roquetes. March 2007
The old stations are still there, though they're mostly ruined now. I did find one down on the stretch into Valencia province which had been converted into a not bad 3 star Hotel.
Once you've done the "Baix Ebre" (Low Ebro - 25 kilometer) stretch you're a convert and start on the stage which goes from Pinell de Brai to Arnés (30 kilometers). I do the Vias in stages. I search Google Earth for the stations then drive thre and do a "stage walk" of about 20 kilometers out and back, usually taking in a station or two. By doing it this way I completed this section, known as the Via verde de Terra Alta (the High Country) in three stages.
Mrs Max looks out over the Ebro Valley near Benifallet.
The Via goes on from Arnés towards Alcañiz in the province of Teruel, and i've done all of the paved stretches, and look forward to doing more when they're completed.
Meanwhile we've also been in winter to the Vias in Girona province and have investigated many of the other Vias all over Spain.
CONTACT INFORMATION: The Via Verde de Baix Ebre lies mainly in the "Parc Nacional de Les Ports". The entrance to the South end of the Via is at Roquetes (Tortosa). Drive down the AP7 taking the Tortosa/Aldea exit and follow the dual carriageway to Tortosa. When you get to a roundabout with a "Star" motif turn left over the river for "Roquetes/Gandesa". Follow through Roquetes finding signs to "Informacio PN Les Ports" these bring you to the edge of town, and on the left the information office. You can park by the offices and the entrance to the Via verde is across the road. Office opening hours 10 - 13 and 17 - 20 Mon-Sat. 10 - 13 Sundays.
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Waterways and Barges
A couple of hundered years ago, it was quite common to use human urine to treat material in the textile industry. This was collected from villiges where a urine vat was kept at the end of each street. Once a week some individual would collect the vat and take it to a central collection port. Here gallons of the stuff would be loaded onto barges or narrow boats and transported the urine to textile areas. Over time, those charged with transporting urine became prosperous and mixed in high society. However, in their new found elevated status, it was deemed unseemly to admit the genesis of their wealth. Instead of being carriers of urine, many of them would only admit to carrying wine. All was well until their social graces, (or, more usually the lack of them) or the constant smell meant that high society doubted the wine story and instead accused them of taking the piss.
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