Visit - The Monastery of Sta. Maria de Vallbona.

Like the other Monasteries in this area, the one in the lush area of Vallbona (literally Good Valley) was encouraged by the Kings of Catalunya after they had established their territory by vanquishing the Moors. Vallbona was originally a small sect of Benedictine Nuns and Monks known as far back as 1154, however the Monks moved on in 1176 and several Nuns came from Navarra, to the Northwest, and established an order of the Cistercian creed.

13th century entrance to the Church. Tombs of Kings stand on the right.

Like Santes Creus and Poblet, this settlement received patronage and protection of the rulers of Catalunya including the ancillary kingdoms of Sicily and Mallorca.

These Monastic settlements, throughout Middle age Europe, were a gathering point for humanity in administration (secular) as well as religious matters as the world recovered from the "Dark Ages". The scale and detail of the buildings is quite extraordinary. It is hard to believe that the main tower of the church was completed in the 14th century. The delicacy of the stonework is stunning.

Below: The 14th century tower overlooks the cloister garden.

The plan at Vallbona is similar to those at Poblet and Santes Creus, as well as other Monasteries. The church stands on one side of a rectangular cloister which is the centre of thought and reflection. The Nuns cells lie down one side of the cloister while the administrative rooms are in various points around the building.

One difference here is that the Nuns are active all around and cheerfully serve and answer questions in their neat and modern shop. It is worth reflecting that despite the purge of the monasteries in 1835, this has been an active site of worship for 850 years.

Summing up the impact of the several religious sites I have visited, I feel that these represent the Major Public Works of the Early middle ages. They formed vital focal points for not only religion, but for information gathering, law and government. Not least, the spiritual effect on the powerful of the Kingdom is marked by the presence of the tombs of most of the local Kings, and their spouses, in these strangely affecting places.

Sunlight picks out detail in the Nave of the church.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus Road and the T-11 roundabout to Montblanc, turning onto the C-14 which you follow to Montblanc. Continue on the C-14 past Montblanc for Tarréga and about 10kms up there is a left turn, clearly signposted to Vallbona de les Monges. Opening: Tues to Sat: 10.30 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 Sundays and Holy Days 12.00 to 13.30 and 16.30 to 17.30 (18.45 in summer) Entrance 3 euros. (closed Mondays).

Visit - The Monastery of Poblet.

Left: The approach to the Monastery.

Continuing my investigation of the Monasteries of Catalunya, I went to what is considered the most complete and important one. Poblet is near the Mediaeval city of Montblanc 45 kilometers North of Tarragona by an excellent road. Lying in a valley of the Prades mountains, and in the area of "Conca de Barberá" it is significantly greener and more tranquil than the semi-desert of "Baix Camp". Like the other monastic settlements in the area, Poblet was founded in the late 12th century by the Kings of the newly created Catlunya in order to establish centres of population, administration and learning in the lands recently reconquered fom the Moors.

Also like the others, it's construction ad evolution spans six centuries, so those who know a wee bit about architecture will enjoy the range of styles from Romanesque through Gothic and Catalan Gothic to modernist touches added during recent restoration. Surprisingly there is still an enclave of 30 Monks here who carry out maintenance and restoration while following their practices of worship, however you are unlikely to see them, as they maintain a distance to preserve their silence.

As with most monasteries, the central Cloister is the bright and sunny area where some walking and conversation was permitted. Like Santes Creus, Poblet has a large fountain built into the cloister area. The library, which was sadly pillaged during the neglect following the sacking of 1835, is of the 13th century and now back in use. There are many areas fully open to the public and the tour, although only available in Spanish and Catalan is worthwhile as an English printed guide is provided on request.

The magnificent Charter House which is still in use for worship and musical recitals.

Also, like the other monasteries, in the 14th century the buildings were fortified and much of the exterior construction shows the defensive nature of the Monsatery which was much visited by Kings and their families.





The church itself is quite extraordinary with many alabaster carvings including the main facade of the Nave and the tombs of several Kings and Queens of Aragon and Catalunya, including that of Jaume I, the conquistador whose name means so much to Salou. These tombs were also pillaged and the bones thrown to the floor during the shameful sacking in the 19th century. Later, these were removed to Tarragona for reburial but the tombs have been carefully restored and are a notable monument to Mediaeval Kingship in this area. Set, as they are in the simple 13th century church, their impact is impressive.





There is a very fine museum area inside the Monastery which contains items of all kinds from dishes and everday utensils, to remains of statues and fine quality carvings rescued during the restoration work which continues to be carried out.




One of many fine carvings on display in the Monastery Museum.






The restoration does not intrude on the atmosphere, and new accomodation blocks being built are very tasteful. This is a well planned operation with adequate parking outside of the Monastery itself, though many people ignored the no entry signs and simply parked inside the main square.

How to get there: From Salou take the Reus road to the T11 roundabout where you take the T11 turning for Montblanc. Shortly this directs you to the T14 which you follow always for Montblanc. Near Montblanc follow for Lleida some 9 kilometers...Poblet is well signposted.

Visit - Monastery of Escaladei

Following two recent visits to the Monsatery at Santes Creus, I decided to go back to the Carthusian site at Scala Dei - the "stairway to God" in the Montsant region. I was last there in 1982 when it had just been acquired as a restoration site however even now there is a massive amount to do. Like Santes Creus and other monasteries, it was closed in 1835 as a convenient way to sell off the land and the destruction of six centuries of peaceful settlement was completed in a few days. Since then the carved stones have been mined for use in farm buildings and walls but the shameful lazy pillagers did not remove the foundations so there is a lot to build on.

The Carthusians were a "silent" order, spending most of their time in individual cells in prayer and meditation. "Lay" workers assisted with the farming and maintenance of the buildings and land, and pilgrims and travellers were cared for in the Hospital and pharmacy.

The church building is the oldest part, dating from the early 13th century (1228) and was patronised by King Jaume I whose statue and name is prominent in Salou. The buildings were extended and refurbished constantly thoughout the 15th and particularly the wealthy farming periods of the 16th and 17th centuries when Catalunya flourished.

It is tragic, but perhaps typical of human history, that this effort should be destroyed by envy and greed then left to rot and ruin once the wealth had been taken by a few individuals.

How to get there: Take the T11 Bypass from Reus towards Falset, just beyond Reus take the right turn to Borges del Camp and continue to Alforja then Direction Cornella de Montsant. Before Cornella there's a junction to the left (good cafe at the junction) to Poboleda which you pass through before arriving at Escaladei. There is a small village first where you can enjoy a meal or a drink - the Monastery is 2 kilometers up a track beyond the village. Opening hours 10 - 1.30 closed Mondays. For variety, return via Gratallops where you can buy very fine Priorat wine and other products at the Agro-Coop, then pass through Falset before returning to Reus.

The Monastery of Santes Creus.

I've lived in this area for 25+ years and heard about the monasteries and churches, however i've only seen a tiny fraction of what they have to offer. As it's a bit hot for sustained effort in August, I decided to take a stroll around the Monastery of Santes Creus, just a half hour drive from Salou. It's one of the Cistercian monasteries and the building has been messed about in so many ways, but it's set in some very pretty country with lots of broad leaved trees which cool the atmosphere.

The main square at Santes Creus.

There are lots of nooks and crannies to poke around in, and one of the best finds is a tiny cloister round an old well of the main square. This uses the old Roman principle of a shady area with a draught passing through and damp air as natural air conditioning.

Surprisingly, this well known site was not massively busy on the Sunday when I visited, however my timing was not too good as they close at 1.30 pm. By way of compensation there are many small bars and restaurants around the charming narrow village steet which leads up to the site, and the smell of woodsmoke gives way to the aroma of roasting sausages, and grilling lamb chops, reminding one that there are some excellent red wines available around here. If only I didn't have to drive back...sigh..never mind, one decent beer is acceptable with a nice piece of rare steak, some flame roasted green peppers and sauteed potatoes and a green salad on the side.

The Cloister and well of Santes Creus.

The buildings are a nice study for anyone keen on mediaeval architecture with lots of nice detail in the masonic style - strange creatures chewing their own tails and so forth.

Pseudo Celtic creatures in the 13th century (earlier?) style.

There seem to be many inhabited houses around the square and I need a second visit, better timed, to learn more about this fascinating place. The last picture is of the 18th century building and archway which leads to the main gate. One of those nice restaurants I mentioned is right there.

Update: True to my word, I returned to Santes Creus with my Wife and Nephews towards the end of August, and in plenty of time to see inside the restored monastery. It is magnificent! The cloisters hold the most astonishing collection of carving i've seen since Roslin Abbey near Edinburgh. There are so many ages represented here from the 12th to the 19th century. There's a visitor centre which shows a film about the Monasteries of the area - the Englsih version screens at 12:30 but be in plenty of time.

We actually didn't get into the church itself as a Mass was being held, but if you get there before 11 you can either join the Mass or see the church before it begins. I'm going again when I get a better camera - those carvings merit a collection of pictures.

How to get there: From Tarragona take the main road to Valls, on the Valls bypass take the C51 towards El Vendrell. Santes Creus is well signposted from there. On the return trip, try going via Aiguamurcia, it's a pleasant treed valley and brings you back by another route to Tarragona.

Walk: Vilella Baixa to Cabacés.

In summer, the humidity on the coast can reach 98%, so no matter how hot the air temperature is, it can feel seriously uncomfortable. My answer, once a week is to get inland and higher up. It can be a double edged sword as in the interior you can experience dry heat which is exhausting and so it proved today.




I decided to head for the small village of Vilella Baixa in the Priorat region. Driving up there from Salou, on the coast, is a treat as you bypass the city of Reus and start to head into pine forested country. As you reach the town of Falset the country is already wooded and clearly "farming" land. Gratallops is another centre of agriculture but even on Sunday there is a certain village atmosphere with terrace furniture on the pavement and a handful of locals enjoying a morning drink. The road, reconditioned recently, still needs concentration as it heads inland on a windey track though pine forests alive with cicadas sounding like an orchestra of demented babies with rattles.







Arriving at Vilella I soon found the start of the trail and headed down towards the 15th century bridge which crosses the Rio Montsant (We are now in the Montsant National Park). The trail is probably extremely ancient. Before Spain had roads, all commerce was by donkey and Ox Cart along narrow trails and this one shows signs of very old paving - slabs of the local red sandstone which were probably laid 2000 years ago are still in evidence though many have been quarried for walls except where the locals have recognised the need for a good sound road.


The 15th century bridge at Vilella Baixa.







The track follows a Westward path, paralleling the Rio Montsant and climbing slowly through productive Vineyards. This is Priorat, the country of strong, earthy, dark wines of enormous character. Priorat wines have gained a worthy recognition worldwide and the wealth they have brought to this region is reflected in the investment in land, and buildings throughout the area.







As you move West the trail firstly passes the verdant valley of the Rio Montsant, then climbs steeply and soon you come to the Gorge of Cuevaloca, literally the "Mad Cave" though I could see no cave, just a sharp drop to a beautiful bridge built in the 1st century A.D. which confirms the pedigree of this important road as a Roman trail. Crossing over the gorge, the trail rises steeply again and enters the forest where it strives to reach the Coll de Cabacés on a two mile steep rocky path. Beyond the coll is the town, but in the 32 degree heat, after two attempts to rest and start again I finally decided to turn back.










I've become lost on trails before, but never quit, however I was getting short of water and didn't know what lay beyond the ridge so this was a sensible decision. The walk back to Vilella was pleasant and the cool beer at the end a necessary treat, after a pint of iced water!





This image is of the Roman bridge over the CovaLoca Gorge.






Whatever, walking in this area of Catlunya can be demanding, but it is always rewarding. In winter the weather is mild, so you can attempt some of the more difficult areas or just look out for migratory birds in the valleys and streams where they pass the winter. In Spring you can walk or cycle the Via Verde railway trails which have been converted for recreation, and enjoy an orange picked freshly from a tree. In summer you can try to give yourself heart failure on some of the limitless trails, as I do!

Spains "Vias Verdes" the Greenways.

In the 19th century, before motorways and even decent paved roads, there was a serious need for transport of merchandise and people, and in the industrial age the first solution was waterways, rapidly followed by the Railway. Railways were a "quick fix" you could make one as long or as short as you needed. They were perfect for mining regions where tons of ore had to be shifted, and as long as the tracks fitted (the gauge) you could join them up and share the resource between villages, provinces and eventually, nationally.

Spain built over 5000 kilometers of narrow gauge railways between the 1850's and 1960's. They carried farm produce to the coast and fertilisers and machinery back to the interior. The railways were mostly run by small, locally financed companies, and eventually in the 1970's they had become economically unviable so they closed. Happily, someone came up with the idea of recovering the rails and paving the tracks for cyclists and walkers. To date, some 1800 kilometers of these marvellous ways have been made available free to the public, and that's in Spain alone! Europe wide there are thousands of kilomters of "Greenways", perfect, safe, easy walkways, often in the most beautiful countryside imaginable.

The nearest Via Verde to Salou is that from "Roquetes", near Tortosa, to "Pinell de Brai" near Gandesa. It follows the Ebro river valley Northwest and passes through Orange groves before paralleling the river and reaching the town of Xerta. The first tunnels then appear, you'll need a torch! As you go noth past Benifallet the country becomes more rugged and beautiful. There are lots of tunnels here, some just a hundred metres long but some three hundred and very dark. When you emerge into the sunlight you might find a plain covered in almond trees, then the next one a deep ravine with falling water and kingfishers flashing over the crystal pools.

Spring Flowers decorate the Via Verde de Baix Ebre near Roquetes. March 2007

The old stations are still there, though they're mostly ruined now. I did find one down on the stretch into Valencia province which had been converted into a not bad 3 star Hotel.

Once you've done the "Baix Ebre" (Low Ebro - 25 kilometer) stretch you're a convert and start on the stage which goes from Pinell de Brai to Arnés (30 kilometers). I do the Vias in stages. I search Google Earth for the stations then drive thre and do a "stage walk" of about 20 kilometers out and back, usually taking in a station or two. By doing it this way I completed this section, known as the Via verde de Terra Alta (the High Country) in three stages.

Mrs Max looks out over the Ebro Valley near Benifallet.

The Via goes on from Arnés towards Alcañiz in the province of Teruel, and i've done all of the paved stretches, and look forward to doing more when they're completed.

Meanwhile we've also been in winter to the Vias in Girona province and have investigated many of the other Vias all over Spain.

CONTACT INFORMATION: The Via Verde de Baix Ebre lies mainly in the "Parc Nacional de Les Ports". The entrance to the South end of the Via is at Roquetes (Tortosa). Drive down the AP7 taking the Tortosa/Aldea exit and follow the dual carriageway to Tortosa. When you get to a roundabout with a "Star" motif turn left over the river for "Roquetes/Gandesa". Follow through Roquetes finding signs to "Informacio PN Les Ports" these bring you to the edge of town, and on the left the information office. You can park by the offices and the entrance to the Via verde is across the road. Office opening hours 10 - 13 and 17 - 20 Mon-Sat. 10 - 13 Sundays.

Walk: Sant Joan to Albarca, Montsant Mountains.

This is a fairly easy walk for the moderately fit. 7.2 kms. 190metres max. displacement. It is mostly level, but you'll want to wear good trainers with some grip, take 1 litre of water and maybe a sandwich or a couple of biscuits in a small rucksack. Mobile phone, switched off just in case of problems, and a pair of Binoculars.

How to get there: From Reus or Salou: Take the Westbound T-11 Reus bypass towards Falset. This ends just past Reus and becomes the N-420, shortly after there's a right turn to Borges del Camp and Alforja (C-242) Follow this to Cornudella de Montsant, passing through there until just as you leave town there's a tarmac track on the left (opposite a sign for Panta de Siurana) which takes you up (3 kms) to the Chapel of Sant Joan de Codolar. It's a narrow track, steep and winding but paved all the way so an ordinary car driven carefully can make it. Park outside the chapel and walk into the yard. Keeping right, you pass between the chapel building and the steep rocks and arrive at a signpost to "Albarca" which you follow. You are now on the GR174 which is signalled periodically with White over red blaze marks. Note that parallel blaze marks mean "correct route" crossed marks mean "wrong route". There's only one point where you can go wrong so watch for it. You continue along the lamost level route 'til you get to the Refuge of Albarca.

The views over the valley are fine, and if there's a breeze it's a special treat. Watch out for local fauna. In Winter and spring you might see wild goats and lots of flowers after rains. In high summer, lizards and the occasional snake.

The return path is the same. When you get back to the Chapel, after a rest go into Cornudella for something to eat or go down to the Siurana reservoir for a swim in summer. You can also rent canoes there in season.

This shows the rock ledge that the trail follows.